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Core & Lathe Foam |
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The next step is to bore the material AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE down the center of the foam. (NOTE: These turning squares are also available "pre-bored.") I have adapted a drill to center bore the material. Alternatively, a metal lathe with a center-core capability works much better. (Perhaps one day I will be able to afford one of these; they are quite expensive even used.) Once the material is bored to the proper internal dimensions, it can either be turned on a mandrel on a lathe or mounted on the rod blank and formed to final shape on the rod itself. Either method works. If you are planning on inlays, I suggest a metal mandrel on either a metal or wood lathe for the best results. The speed is higher and the material wears down quicker as heat builds up on the surface of the foam. I've found that open weave sanding screen as used by dry wall finishers works best, as it does not clog up with the foam as quickly. When it does, it can be rinsed off in hot water to remove the clogs. Finishing is best done with fine--400 , 600, or higher--grit emory cloth. The finer the grit, the smoother and more velvety the finish on the grip will feel to the angler. Whichever method you choose, the internal surface of the grip material should be "roughed up" to provide solid adhesion between the grip and the blank. I prefer to take this one step further by using a round rasp to roughen the inside of the grip, following up with a triangular file to create internal grooves. These will be filled with the bonding material of your choice. |
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